The ultimate egg primer

I can hardly wait to try this out, because it’s just what a novice like me needs: a primer of cooking techniques on “The Incredible Egg,” courtesy of Bon Appétit. It’s got the basics plus the superlatives, like “The Softest Scramble” by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, “The Perfect Poach” by Thomas Keller, and “The Silkiest Carbonara” adapted from what I’m almost positive is the popular version at Perilli (not Pirelli, as the original text says—which, as far as I can tell, refers only to the tire manufacturer) in Rome.

It’s so lovely, the way a well-poached egg oozes golden yolk over eggs Benedict when you slice into it…that “lava-like flow of yolk” to which Per Se chef de cuisine Eli Kaimeh refers in the Bon App primer.

The thoroughness of the instructions reminds me of that one scene in Sabrina (the 1954 version) when Audrey Hepburn’s strict cooking-school instructor is commencing their course in Paris.

“Bonjour, mesdames et monsieurs. Yesterday we have learned the correct way how to boil water. Today we will learn the correct way how to crack an egg. Voilà! An egg. Now, an egg is not a stone; it is not made of wood, it is a living thing. It has a heart. So when we crack it, we must not torment it. We must be merciful and execute it quickly, like with the guillotine. CHAK!”

That scene always makes me laugh.

(Top photo: Peden + Munk for Bon Appétit; bottom photo via Fanpop)

Update: Amanda Hesser guides you through “The Control-Freak Method” of egg poaching in this Food52 video.

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2 thoughts on “The ultimate egg primer

    • I love the follow-up scene where Sabrina is writing a letter to her father as someone plays “La Vie en Rose” on an accordion at night in the street below. She says something like, “Thank you so much for sending me here, Father…I have learned so much here. Not just how to make vichyssoise or calf’s head with sauce vinaigrette, but a much more important recipe. I have learned how to live…how to be in the world, and of the world, and not just to stand aside and watch. And I will never again run away from life…or from love, either.”

      Possibly I have watched that movie way to often :) but I also love how cooking becomes a metaphor for engaging fully in life.

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